Walking in Memphis

Today it is Cher we turn to for our title theme, I'm walking in Memphis, full lyrics here or listen to it here. Because yes we were walking in Memphis.

I got up at 4.45 this morning and updated the blog. Then it was time to shave and shower before walking along to the breakfast room. The Comfort Inn in Tupelo is very new, indeed it only opened in February, which means it was not actually open when I booked it! Everything is very modern and nicely laid out, including the breakfast room, which has a separate dining area to which you can take you food. We went for breakfast at 6.30, I had eggs, biscuits and what is called over here Canadian bacon. We were packed and out of the hotel by 7.30 to begin today's journey.

I noticed that I didn't include the google map of yesterday's journey in the blog, so here it is:

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Today's looks like this:
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This involved a nice easy drive into Tennessee, a state both of us have visited before, though on the east side (Nashville) so this was our first visit to the Western part of the state. The temperature was 87 and the humidity high, hence the fog on the camera lens in the photo.
Almost immediately over the state line is the City of Memphis - home to Elvis, the Blues and the location of the death of Martin Luther King Jr.

We found a car park and started to investigate downtown Memphis. Initially we thought there had been some problem, as the streets were empty. However it appears that, unlike the UK when it is the busiest day of the week in town, US towns are quiet on a Saturday. With so many people living, shopping and enjoying themselves out of town, the town centres can become a bit ghost like on the weekend.

The first place we visited picked up from yesterday, the statue of Elvis. While at the statue a homeless person, sitting near by, came and told me that if we were in Memphis we must see the National Civil Rights Museum he then gave us directions - so we walked down Main street for 9 blocks and turned across to Mulberry, which is not just any old Museum to this amazing movement, but is the place where Martin Luther King Jr was shot and killed.

The museum was well laid out and focussed on the whole of the civil rights movement, but had one key section on the lead up to the death of Dr King, here again were the names of people who worked with him who are now commemorated in their own right - Andrew Young, Ralph Abernathy and Jesse Jackson as three examples.  


I hadn't realised when we entered the museum, but the building we are in is not only opposite the Lorraine Hotel where Dr King died, but is the site of the hotel where James Earl Ray, Dr King's killer, spent the day and shot from. The window of the bathroom is still there are the bathroom and bedroom have been recreated on the actual site. I found this very emotive. At 10 Dr King's killing had a profound impact on me, while I had a vague memory of Kennedy's shooting when I was 5, I was old enough when Dr King died to feel the impact of a good life snuffed out, and spent a lot of time reading about Dr King and his movement back then. To be at the spot where his killer stood was both chilling and emotional - the impetus never to treat any man or women less than you treat yourself, the call not to discriminate against any person based on race, creed, colour, gender, sexual preference, age or any other category is reaffirmed here. This view resonates with my faith that Jesus died for all and it has long been part of my world-view, but Dr King is an influence on that. On reflection it is why I sit on the University's Equality Committee. As boring and legalistic as the committee sometimes can be; what it does matters! And Dr King was willing to die because it matters.

After the Museum we were able to walk across and look up at the balcony where Dr King died. A floral tribute is constantly maintained there.

From the museum we walked down to the Mississippi Riverside walk and Drew took pictures of 'Old Man River'. Then it was back into town for a look at the area in which the Blues were invented.

We went into a coffee shop, where we decided we would have lunch. I opted for a sandwich called a Redbreast Ruben on rye this had turkey, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, mustard and was served with a dill pickle (Gherkin as we call them) and crisps. Drew opted for a Cuban Hero panini which was made of pulled pork, ham, cheese and barbecue sauce. Both were freshly made as we waited and it provided a great lunch.

Having only stopped in Memphis to have a brief look around it was over 3 hours before we got into the car and headed for Little Rock. We crossed the Arkansas State Line as we left Memphis (this being my third missing state we are at 3 of 6 with only the first week of the holiday done). We drove through the Arkansas countryside and arrived at the Legacy Hotel at 2.30 and checked in.